3D Designer — Help

Build, prepare and export 3D‑printable models in your browser

New here? Read the step-by-step User Guide (printable A5 / PDF)

What it is

The 3D Designer is an in‑browser modeller for 3D printing. Drop in primitive shapes, sketch your own profiles, combine them with booleans, check they're printable, and export to STL, 3MF, OBJ, GLB or PLY. It runs entirely in your browser and works offline.


Quick start

  1. Pick a printer from the preset dropdown (sets the bed size).
  2. Click Shapes on the tool rail down the left and pick a shape to add it.
  3. Click it to select, then drag the gizmo or type exact values in the right panel.
  4. Combine parts with Boolean or holes; line things up with the smart guides.
  5. Use Place and Print on the rail to lay flat, arrange and check, then Export.

Saving your work

  • Save (File → Save, Ctrl+S) keeps the design in your account, where you can open it again from any computer. A free account saves 2 designs a day — the top bar shows how many are left. Saving the same design again on the same day doesn't use another one, so you can press Ctrl+S as often as you like while you work. Supporters save as many as they want.
  • Save to file (File → Save to file) writes a .litez file to your own computer — as many as you like, on any plan — and Open from file brings it back, parameters and guides included.
  • The designer also keeps an autosave in your browser, so if you close the page by accident it offers to bring the work back.

Tool rail, top bar & menus

The designer fills the whole window. Every tool is on the tool rail down the left: click a group — Shapes, Create, Draw, Place, Arrange, Combine, Modify, Text, Measure, Print — and its tools open in a panel beside it, with their keyboard shortcuts; click a tool to use it, and Esc or a click elsewhere closes the panel. A group with a tool running shows an orange dot, and the running tool is highlighted in its panel. Search (/) finds any tool by name. The top bar keeps the menus for the design as a whole:

  • File — New… (save or clear the current model first), Save, Save a copy, Load…, Import STL / OBJ / 3MF / GLB / FBX / SVG, Save to / open from file (.litez), Browse public gallery, Keyboard shortcuts.
  • Export — STL (binary/ASCII), 3MF, OBJ, GLB, PLY, and “Selected as STL”.
  • View — jump the camera to Iso / Top / Front / Side; switch the Display mode Solid / Wireframe / Transparent (transparent is an x-ray so you can see parts moved inside other parts — Shift+W cycles) Exploded view (a slider spreads the parts outward from the centre, or upward in stacking order, to show how a multi-part design goes together — Close puts them back), Save picture / turntable video (a PNG of just the model from the current angle — square 1080, wide 1920 × 1080, tall 1080 × 1920 or the view's size, on a dark, white, grey or see-through background — or a spinning turntable as a video (MP4 where the browser can, otherwise WebM) or a looping GIF), toggle Section view (slices the view across X, Y or Z so you can see walls, holes and parts inside; the cut shows in red, Flip keeps the other side, and the model itself is not cut) and Edge outlines (crisp feature edges for a technical look) or Mesh lines (every triangle edge drawn over the solid — so you can see the full wireframe and pick edges to collapse); toggle Orthographic (CAD) view (parallel projection, no perspective distortion — great for aligning & measuring), Studio lighting + shadow and Dimension labels; plus View in AR (exports a USDZ — on iPhone/iPad it opens the model in your room at real scale).
  • Place and Print (tool rail) — lay flat, auto‑arrange, drop/centre, Pack onto plates (every part onto as few beds as it takes — gap, edge margin, turning parts 90°, a free corner for the wipe tower, colours kept together or one colour per plate — laid out as Plate 1, 2, 3… beside the bed; Download plates gives one 3MF per plate, moved back onto the bed, in a ZIP), Check the build plate (each part's first layer drawn on the bed in green, orange or red, with warnings for parts that float or sink, barely touch the bed, are tall for their footprint, hang over the edge, are wider or taller than the printer — or fit only when turned — and Drop to bed, Turn and Centre buttons), printability & thin‑wall checks, overhang view, print info.
  • Draw (tool rail) — Draw on a face, Push/Pull, Offset and Follow Me, and sketching on a plane: pick a plane (bed, front, side or a part's face), then draw a profile and extrude, revolve, or sweep along it.
  • Modify (tool rail) — twist, edges, corners, hollow, patterns, point edit, subdivide, simplify, convex hull, and sculpt: add a sculpt ball or sculpt a selected mesh like clay.
  • Create (tool rail) — make new objects: AI generate, parametric parts, Loft (blend a bottom shape into a top shape: square, circle or oval, triangle, hexagon, octagon or star, with height, twist and a top shift; a Wall above 0 makes a hollow tube open at both ends, for adapters and funnels), gear, thread (bolt / nut), QR-code shape, keychain / name tag, and cookie cutter (from SVG).
  • Place, Arrange, Combine, Text, Measure (tool rail) — work on the selected object: Place (move with snapping, the move / rotate / scale arrows, align onto a face, lay flat, scale / resize & fit-bed, drop / centre), Arrange (duplicate, mirror, arrays, align & even spacing, groups), Combine (union / cut / keep, holes, screw holes, fits, joints, cut / split with pins, split for printing), Text (3D text, text on a face, wrap text around a cylinder / cone / sphere, image / QR emboss, decal, apply text-image, paint faces), Measure (measure, tape measure & guides, section view, dimension labels). Create also holds imports, My Shapes and the reference image underlay.
  • AI — describe a model in plain English and the AI designs it for you — any shape, as an editable model (Supporter feature).
  • Public — publish this design to the gallery when you save.
  • Snap + an editable step (mm) field — rounds movement and sketch points to the grid (type any value).
  • Measure (tool rail, or M) — choose what to measure at the top-left of the view: Distance (click two points), Angle (click two faces, or a face and the bed: a box corner reads 90°) or Diameter (click three points round a hole, a rim or a curved wall).
  • Printer preset & Bed X/Y/Z — an Out of bounds badge warns if a part won't fit. The Printer & bed panel also has Display units (mm / inch), a Filament $/kg price and an Infill % that feed the live status bar.
  • Status bar (bottom) — live totals: scene object & triangle counts, plus the selection's triangles, size (red if it exceeds the bed), volume, and weight + estimated cost (scaled by your infill %).

Undo / Redo are at the top of the tool rail. The arrow modes Move · Rotate · Scale (W / E / R) are under Place, where the active mode is highlighted. The move arrows and rotate rings always keep to the bed's axes — X red, Y green, Z blue — however a part is turned; only the scale handles turn with the part, because a part stretches along its own sides.


Shapes

Click Shapes at the top of the tool rail and pick one to add it at the centre of the bed (it's selected automatically): boxes & plates, round forms, faceted solids, rings & fun, the gear, 3D text and My Shapes. Tip: press / anywhere to open the command palette and search/run any tool or shape by name.

Cube
Sphere
Cylinder
Cone
Torus
Pyramid
Wedge
Torus knot
Tetrahedron
Octahedron
Dodecahedron
Icosahedron
Dome
Hex prism
Tube / pipe
Star
Heart
Slab / plate
Rounded box
Gear (parametric)

Below the shapes are 3D text and My Shapes (your reusable library). Import lives in the File menu: STL, OBJ, 3MF (keeps colours & separate bodies), GLB / glTF, FBX, and SVG (which extrudes the outlines). Multi-part files come in as separate editable objects (each weld-cleaned for printing); tiny metre-scale models (common in GLB/glTF) are auto-scaled to millimetres — use the Scale / resize tool if a model arrives the wrong size.


Select & transform

  • Click to select; Shift/Ctrl‑click to multi‑select; click empty space to deselect. Selected shapes turn orange.
  • Gizmo arrows are colour‑coded: X, Y, Z. Modes: Move (W) · Rotate (E) · Scale (R).
  • While dragging, a read‑out shows live position / size / rotation, and smart guides snap parts to each other's edges/centres (cyan lines).
  • Arrow keys nudge the selection (PgUp/PgDn for Z; hold Shift for fine 0.2 mm).
  • Del deletes · D duplicates · right‑click opens a context menu with hover submenus — Transform, Combine (Union / Cut / Keep, mark-as-hole, apply holes), Edit mesh, Arrange and Object.

Right panel (exact edits)

The right panel has collapsible sections (click a header to fold it):

  • Parameters — name measurements you use again and again (wall = 2.4, width = 60, even inner = width - 2*wall). Then type a formula into any Position, Size or Rotation box — width - 2*wall, wall*5 + 10, max(20, width/3) — and press Enter. The box is marked in purple and remembers its formula (click into it to see or edit it); change a parameter and every part that uses it resizes or moves. Typing a plain number unhooks the box. Formulas can use + − × ÷, ^, brackets, min, max, round, sqrt, sin/cos/tan (degrees) and pi. Parameters are saved with the design.
  • Transform — type precise Position, Size and Rotation per axis (or a formula using your parameters), set the colour, and read the live dimensions / weight estimate.
  • Actions — Drop to floor, Centre, Mirror X/Y/Z (flip in place) and Mirror copy X/Y/Z (a mirrored duplicate — perfect for symmetric left/right parts), Duplicate, Delete, Array Row / Ring / Grid (the two count boxes are columns × rows for Grid), Hollow, and Toggle hole.
  • Arrange — Align & Distribute a multi‑selection, plus Group, Ungroup and Split (break an imported/boolean mesh into its separate bodies).
  • Combine — the boolean buttons and Apply holes.
  • Objects — the scene list: rename (double‑click), recolour, hide , lock , or export each shape.

Sketch → extrude / revolve

Draw on the tool rail lets you draw your own profiles on the bed and pull them into 3D:

  • Plane — choose where to draw: Top (bed), Front (XZ), Side (YZ), or Pick a face… to sketch directly on a face of an existing part — the chosen face is highlighted in orange so you can see where you'll draw. All the draw tools below then work on that plane and extrude along its normal.
  • Rectangle / Circle — click two points, then enter a height to extrude. For an exact size, click the first point (or none) and press Enter to type the dimensions (e.g. 40x20 for a rectangle, or a diameter for a circle).
  • Polygon — click points; finish with Enter, a double‑click, or by clicking the start point, then enter a height.
  • Revolve — click a side profile (radius is measured from the orange axis line); it spins into a solid of revolution (vases, bottles, knobs). Start & end on the axis for a closed solid.
  • Sweep along a path (tube / bar) — click points to trace a path; Enter / double-click then sweeps a profile along it. Pick the cross-section by number of sides — 0 = round tube, 3 = triangle, 4 = square, 6 = hexagon (any number) — and a size. Great for pipes, cables, handles, rails and bars.

Sculpting

Push and pull a mesh like clay. From Modify on the tool rail pick Add sculpt ball (best results) or Sculpt selected; a brush bar appears over the viewport.

  • Left‑drag on the surface to sculpt · right‑drag to orbit · scroll to zoom. A cyan ring shows the brush.
  • Brushes: Draw (bump), Inflate (puff), Smooth (relax), Flatten, Pinch (crease), Grab (drag vertices).
  • Size & Strength sliders · Invert to carve inward · Symmetry to mirror across the centre.
  • Subdivide adds resolution for finer detail · Done (or Esc) finishes.

Sculpting moves existing vertices (it doesn't add detail on its own) — Subdivide first for finer features. Dense sculpts make large files, so run Check printability before exporting.


Boolean & holes

Boolean (two shapes): select the first, click ∪ Union, − Cut or ∩ Keep, then click the second (Esc cancels). Heavy operations run in the background with a spinner so the app stays responsive.

Screw holes: Combine → Screw hole… on the tool rail. Choose the screw (M2–M8) and the kind of hole — clearance (the screw passes through), countersunk (flat head sits flush), counterbore (a cap head sits in a pocket), heat-set insert, pilot (the screw cuts its own thread in the plastic) a hex nut trap, a captive nut slot (the nut sits Nut at mm inside the part and slides in along a slot that runs to the part's edge — Slot angle turns it in the face; parts too thin for the nut are refused) or bolt + nut (a counterbore for the bolt head where you click and a hex nut trap where the hole comes out on the far side) — then click faces to place holes. Heat-set insert holes have a small lead-in chamfer. The sizes fill in by themselves and can be changed; Print allowance (0.2 mm) is added because printed holes come out a little small, and Through goes right through the part. The holes are hole shapes: Apply holes cuts them. Insert sizes are typical ones; check your insert's packet.

Fit two parts: Combine → Fit two parts… on the tool rail. Select the part that goes in and the hole or part it goes into (Shift+click), choose a fit — press 0.1, tight 0.15, snug 0.2, sliding 0.3 or loose 0.4 mm on each side, or your own — and Apply: the part going in is resized (or the hole, if you choose) and centred. It shows the gap before and after. With one part selected, it is simply made smaller (or bigger) by the gap.

Hole mode (many at once): mark shapes as holes (they go translucent), position them, then Apply holes cuts every hole out of every solid in one step.


Tools (text, cut, emboss…)

Most tools open a small floating panel over the viewport and show a live preview as you change the settings — green means it will be added (emboss), red means it will be cut away (engrave). Press Apply to commit or Cancel / Esc to back out.

  • Push/Pull (Draw on the tool rail, or Shift+P) — point at any flat face and the whole face lights up. Drag it, or click, move and click again like SketchUp: pull out to add material (green), push in to cut a pocket (red), or push right through for a hole. While it follows the mouse, type a distance and press Enter for an exact size (a minus pushes, e.g. -2.5). It lines up with the height of other faces and corners as you move ("lined up with a face"), and a double-click on another face repeats the last distance. Esc cancels; Esc again closes the tool. It works on any part, even ones already cut or joined, and the result stays a closed, printable solid. A push that would remove the whole part is refused.
  • Move with snapping (Place on the tool rail, or Shift+M) — click a part by a corner, edge or face (with parts selected, it moves the selection), move, and click again — or drag and let go. The point you grabbed snaps onto corners, edge middles, edges and faces of other parts and onto guides, so parts line up exactly. Lock the direction with the arrow keys (→ X red, ← Y green, ↑/↓ Z blue; press again to unlock) or the X / Y / Z buttons; locked, it still lines up with any point you point at. It falls onto the X or Y line by itself when you move nearly straight, and holding Shift keeps it there. Type a distance and Enter for an exact move (25 the way it is going, or 10,5,0 for X, Y, Z); after it is done, type a new distance to change it. Ctrl (or the Copy box) makes a copy instead. Straight after a copy, type 5x and Enter for five copies at that spacing, or /5 for five spread evenly over that distance — and retype to change it (3x, /8…). Esc puts it back; Esc again closes the tool.
  • Draw on a face (Draw on the tool rail, or Shift+R) — pick Rectangle, Circle, Polygon (choose the sides) or Lines, then draw straight onto any flat face. The first click sets the face; points snap to its corners, edge middles, edges and guides, and line up with the last point. Rectangle: click a corner, move, click — or type 40,20 and Enter (it goes the way the mouse is). Circle / Polygon: click the centre, move, click — or type the radius. Lines: click point after point and click the first point again (or double-click) to close; type a length and Enter for an exact line; Backspace takes a point back. What you draw becomes a drawn face (white lines) for Push/Pull: push a circle in for a hole, pull a rectangle out for a boss. A shape drawn inside another drawn face becomes a hole in it, so each pushes and pulls on its own; one drawn beside the part on the same plane only adds (a tab). Lines that cross each other are refused.
  • Offset (Draw on the tool rail, or Shift+O) — click a flat face and move: a new outline follows the mouse, inside the face or outside it (click again, or drag and let go). Type a distance and Enter for an exact one (2 = 2 mm in, -2 = 2 mm out); a double-click on another face repeats it. The face is split into drawn faces shown as white lines — the inside and the ring round it — and Push/Pull picks each one on its own: push the inside down for a tray or recess, pull the ring up for a wall or frame. An outline outside the part makes a ring that only adds: pull it up for a lip, push it down for a skirt. Drawn faces are lines, not part of the model: they go when the part is moved or changed another way (Clear lines removes them). An offset too far for the face (the outline would cross itself) is shown red and refused.
  • Follow Me (Draw on the tool rail, or Shift+F) — pick a profile and a size, point at a flat face to see it, and click. Cut: round over, chamfer or a groove (set in from the edge by its width). Add: a lip (a wall round the top, with a height), a bead, a ledge that sticks out, or a cove moulding under the edge. All round the face follows the whole outline, holes included; Just the edge I click follows the straight run of edges nearest the mouse. It works on drawn faces too, so offset first and a groove follows the new outline.
  • Tape measure & guides (Measure on the tool rail, or Shift+T) — the pointer snaps to corners, the middle of edges, edges, faces and guides. Click two points to measure (distance and X · Y · Z); a guide point is left at the end. Start on an edge and move away to place a guide line parallel to it — type a distance and Enter for an exact one. Ctrl turns Make guides on and off. Guides are saved with the design (not undone by Undo, cleared by File → New), are left out of pictures, and Push/Pull lines up with them. Remove last guide and Clear guides are on the bar.
  • Twist, taper & bend (Modify) — select a part and use the sliders: Twist turns the top against the base, Top size narrows or widens it, Bend curves it toward X or Y. It works along the part's height, so turn the part first to bend it another way. The part is split into small triangles so it bends smoothly (Extra smooth for more); the preview is live and Apply keeps it.
  • Pattern on a face (Modify) — select a part, then click one of its flat faces: round, hexagon (honeycomb), square, diamond, slot or Voronoi holes fill it, keeping the edge margin and the wall between holes. The red preview shows every hole; Cut takes them through the part (or to a depth). Shuffle gives a new Voronoi.
  • Joint two parts (Combine) — put two parts together face to face (after a Cut / split, or with Align onto a face), select both and choose a dovetail (slides in along the longer side), a snap-fit clip (a hooked arm that clicks into a pocket) or pins. The green part is added to the first part and the red, slightly bigger slot is cut from the other (Clearance, 0.2 mm); Swap parts turns it round. Move the parts apart afterwards to see the joint.
  • Round or chamfer an edge (Modify) — select a part, point at a straight edge (it lights up yellow) and click: just that edge is rounded (or chamfered) by the size you set. Outside edges lose their corner; inside corners gain a fillet. Keep clicking for more edges; Done when finished. For rounding every edge of a box or cylinder at once there is still Round / chamfer corners.
  • Align onto a face — pick the object to move, then click a face on another object to seat it flush on that surface. Copy / Paste (Ctrl+C / Ctrl+V) duplicate parts, even between designs.
  • Scale / resize — resize the whole selection to an exact size. Type a target X / Y / Z in mm (keep Lock ratio on for uniform scaling), or hit Fit bed to shrink it to your printer bed. A live box preview turns green if it fits, red if it's over‑size; parts stay seated on the floor.
  • Text on a face — click a face, then type your text and set size + depth. The text previews right on the surface; Apply bonds it in (emboss = raised, engrave = cut), or Place drops it as a movable object to position first and apply later via Apply text / image to shape (Text on the tool rail, or right‑click).
  • Image / QR emboss — stamp a picture or QR code onto a face. Upload an image (Threshold for logos / line art, or Relief for a grayscale plaque) or type text for a QR code, preview it, then click a face to place it with a live on‑surface preview and Emboss or Engrave.
  • Decal on a surface — project text or an image onto a curved surface so it conforms to the shape (a logo on a sphere, a name on a cone). Set text+colour or pick an image and a size, then click the surface. Note: a decal is a visual / colour layer (great for renders, GLB & AR), not a printable relief — for raised/engraved markings use Image/QR emboss or Wrap text. Decal textures aren't stored in saved projects.
  • QR code shape — generate a standalone, printable QR plaque (a base plate with raised modules). Set the text / URL, size, module height and base thickness. The modules start exactly at the base height, so a filament change at that Z gives a clean two‑colour, scannable code.
  • Cut / split — slices a model into two parts (to fit the bed). A floating bar + a draggable plane show the cut; toggle the handle between Move and Rotate for straight or angled cuts, and optionally add alignment pins (pin on one half, socket in the other) so the pieces glue back together.
  • Split for printing (auto) — too big for one bed? This chops a whole model into a grid of bed-sized pieces automatically. The piece size defaults to your current printer bed but you can type any X / Y / Z; a gap margin keeps each piece inside the bed, and optional alignment pins mate the pieces for gluing. It shows a live piece-count, then opens a gallery of every piece with a thumbnail — download each STL, all of them, or the whole set as one ZIP. In the scene the pieces fan out in an exploded view so the split is obvious; buttons let you Arrange on bed (flat-pack, ready to slice), Reassemble (check the joins line up), or drag the Explode slider. Print them on one or several printers.
  • Round / chamfer / smooth — fillet or 45° chamfer the edges of a box or cylinder (set the edge radius), or Smooth (subdivide + relax) to round the edges of any mesh.
  • Edit points (vertex drag) — tweak a mesh by hand: hover snaps to the nearest vertex (a dot shows it), then left-drag to move it. An Influence radius pulls neighbouring vertices along with a smooth falloff (set it to 0 to move a single vertex), and you can lock the drag to an axis with the Axis dropdown or the X / Y / Z / F keys. Switch the Action to Extrude face to pull new geometry out (click a flat face and drag — it grows the whole coplanar face outward and builds the side walls), or Inset face to shrink a face inward (drag toward the centre) — inset then extrude is the classic way to add a recessed or raised panel. Right-drag orbits; Done keeps the edits, Cancel reverts. The mesh is auto-welded on entry so shared corners move together without tearing.
  • Edit settings (change a part later) — a part made by a generator remembers its settings: a gear, a parametric part, a loft, a thread, 3D text, a QR shape or a keychain. Select it and press Edit … settings at the top of the Selected panel: the generator opens with those settings, its Add button becomes Update, and the part is rebuilt where it is — same position, turn, size, colour, name and cut-out setting, as one Undo step. A box and lid (or any set made by one Add) is rebuilt together; a Duplicate edits on its own. If you have reshaped the part since (Push/Pull, sculpt, edit points…), you are warned first, because rebuilding replaces those changes. Saved designs and files keep the settings.
  • Thread (bolt / nut) — generates real helical threads: a Bolt (hex head), a Threaded rod, or a Nut. Set Diameter, Pitch and Length (common metric sizes are listed); a matching bolt & nut screw together.
  • Gear — a parametric gear with a live preview: set teeth, diameter, thickness, tooth depth, edge style, centre hole and an optional hub. Type makes it a normal gear, a ring with the teeth inside (another gear runs round inside it — planetary gearboxes, turntable drives; Tip Ø is then the opening across the tooth tips) or a ring with the teeth outside (a large gear with an open middle). Rim is the solid band behind a ring's teeth. Match selected gear: click a gear you already made first, then press it — the new gear gets teeth the same size (so the two mesh), a little thinner by the Gap (0.2–0.4 mm suits most printers), and it is placed meshed with it: a ring goes round it, a gear goes beside it or inside a ring. Change Teeth and it stays matched; typing a diameter yourself ends the matching. A ring needs at least four more teeth than the gear inside it. Rack (straight) makes a flat toothed bar instead — set its teeth (its length), the tooth size (tooth spacing, the gear "module") and the solid Back under the teeth. With a gear selected, Match selected gear gives the rack that gear's teeth and lays it under the gear, meshed; with a rack selected, matching a gear puts it on top of the rack, over the nearest free stretch. One turn of the gear moves the rack its tooth count × the tooth spacing. Helix° slants the teeth (helical gears — quieter and stronger; 15–25° is typical, + and − are the two hands) and Herringbone slants them one way to half height and back (no sideways push, prints without supports). Two gears side by side need opposite hands, a gear inside a ring or on a rack the same hand: Match selected gear sets it for you. The Planetary gear set has the same two settings. Herringbone planets cannot slide into their ring afterwards, so print a herringbone set as it is laid out. Bevel / miter (90°) makes a cone-shaped gear that meshes with another bevel gear at a right angle: set its Teeth and the Partner teeth it will mesh with (the same number = a miter pair at 45°; 12 and 36 = a 1 : 3 right-angle drive; up to about 4.7 times either way). Thick is the face width (held to a third of the cone). Select it and use Match selected gear with Type Bevel: the partner gets the right teeth and is laid on its side, meshed, its tip meeting the first one's at the same point (the pair is lifted if the one on its side would dip under the bed). Each bevel gear prints standing on its flat back; the teeth slope away at the cone angle. An optional hub goes on the small end. Worm (screw) makes a worm: set the Tooth size, the Worm Ø, its Length and the Starts (thread lines: 1 = the slowest — and self-locking, so the wheel can't turn it back — 2 or 3 = faster). It is added lying on its side. Then select it, set Type Gear and the wheel's teeth, and press Match selected gear: the worm wheel gets the worm's tooth size and the slant of its thread (a helical wheel), and is placed beside it, meshed. One turn of the worm moves the wheel as many teeth as the worm has starts — a 1-start worm and a 30-tooth wheel is 30 : 1. Gear calculator (Create → Gears). Find a gear train: the ratio (1 : 36 means the output turns once for 36 turns of the input; under 1 speeds up), or a motor rpm and the output rpm you want; the smallest and largest teeth, the tooth size, thickness and Gap; and which kinds to try — spur gears (up to 3 stages), a worm drive, a planetary set. The list puts exact trains first, then fewer stages, then smaller ones, with roughly how long each is on the bed. Build makes the whole train in the designer — matched, each stage stacked on the last one's shaft — ready for Turn the gears; a planetary result opens the Planetary gear set panel filled in; Speed carries a train into the speed tab. Gear sizes: pitch, outside and root Ø, tooth height, centre distance, a gear in a ring, rack travel per turn, a worm's lead and lead angle. Speed & torque: the output speed and torque, roughly 95 % per stage, and a worm's own efficiency — and whether it locks itself. Demos → Gear demos… (in the top bar, and at the bottom of Create → Gears) shows sixteen ready-made gear designs with a picture and a line each; Open in designer puts one in the designer (it asks first if something is already there). A link to designv2.php?demo=8 opens demo 8 straight away. All the gear tools are together under Create → Gears: Gear / ring gear, Helical / herringbone gear, Rack and pinion, Bevel / miter gear, Worm and worm wheel, Planetary gear set, GT2 pulley, belt & clamp, and Turn the gears. Chamfered and Rounded edges are cut into the gear, so it stays the size you typed.
  • Planetary gear set (Create) — a sun, 2–8 planets and a ring in one go. Set the teeth on the sun and the planets, how many planets, the tooth size (the tooth spacing; 1–2 mm suits most printers), thickness, gap, the ring's rim, and the holes for the sun's shaft and the planets' pins. The ring always gets sun + 2 × planet teeth, so everything meshes. Planets are spaced evenly when sun + ring teeth divides by the number of planets, otherwise as evenly as they can mesh (the panel says which); planets that would touch are refused. The panel shows the outside size and the ratio with the ring held still (sun → carrier). Carrier adds a plate with a pin for each planet, printed flat beside the set, pins up — turn it over onto the planets. Every part is a normal gear, so Turn the gears works on the set, and Edit settings on any part rebuilds the whole set.
  • GT2 pulley, belt & clamp (Create) — for the 2 mm-pitch GT2 belts used on 3D printers. Pulley: the number of teeth (16, 20, 36, 40, 60 are common), belt width (6, 9 or 10 mm), flanges, the bore (5 mm for a NEMA 17 motor, with a D-flat if the shaft has one), a hub below or above with an M3 set screw. With a pulley selected, the new one goes Spacing mm beside it. Belt round 2 selected pulleys: select two pulleys (click, Ctrl+click) — the belt is drawn round them with its length in teeth; Fit a whole-tooth belt moves the second pulley a fraction so a closed GT2 belt you can buy fits. Belt clamp: a block with a toothed channel the belt end locks into, a cover plate and two M3 holes. Pulleys are normal parts (Edit settings works); Turn the gears turns belted pulleys together, the same way, at their tooth ratio.
  • Print-in-place parts (Create) — parts that come off the printer already moving, printed in one job. Clearance is the gap between the moving parts, down to 0.025 mm (0.3–0.5 mm suits most printers; smaller is tighter but may fuse). In both bearings the balls or needles are sized to fill the ring, with only the clearance between neighbours, so they cannot bunch up and leave a gap. Ball bearing: outer Ø, bore Ø and width, and Ball Ø if you want bigger or smaller balls (blank = automatic; it is kept to what fits, and the number of balls follows); the balls sit in a 45° V-groove so nothing needs support; print it flat and spin it free. Needle bearing: the same rings with upright needles (rollers) instead of balls — Needle Ø, Bead Ø (across the bead or collar round each needle's middle) and Length (blank = automatic, the length the width less the clearance at both ends); each needle has a 45° collar running in a groove of both rings, so the needles stay in and print standing, without support. Groove (both bearings): V — the 45° V-groove (a 45° collar on each needle) — or Round — a round groove that hugs the ball (a round bead on each needle) with a 45° top, so it still prints without support; it is less deep, so bigger balls fit. Fine bearings work down to about 10 mm outer Ø: use a small clearance (0.15–0.2 mm) and Round. Hinge: length, leaf width, thickness, an odd number of knuckles, pin Ø and optional M3 screw holes; one leaf carries the pin through every knuckle, the other's knuckles are bored to fit round it. Print it flat as it is and bend it once to free it. Chain: number of links, link length and width, wire thickness; the links are tilted 45° either way so neighbours interlock and every face is at 45° or flatter — use a brim. Edit settings rebuilds a set.
  • Spring (Create). Compression (coil): outer Ø, wire thickness (square wire prints best; round is offered), active coils and free length. There is a closed coil at each end and both ends are ground flat, so it stands up and prints from a flat base; the panel shows the gap between the coils, how short it squeezes and how far it can travel, and refuses coils that would touch (under 0.4 mm apart). Print it standing up. Flat (zig-zag): length, height, strip width, thickness and number of bends; the legs must be at least 0.4 mm apart; optional end tabs with M3 holes. Print it flat. Edit settings rebuilds it.
  • Knob / thumb screw (Create). Grip: flutes or star lobes (choose how many), a fine knurl or smooth; Ø and height; Rounded edges softens the top and bottom. Fixing: nut (a hex pocket underneath and the screw hole through — a knob on a screw), bolt head (a hex pocket on top — press a hex bolt in for a thumb screw), shaft (a round or D-flat bore, with an M3 set-screw hole from the side) or printed thread (an M6–M12 stem in one piece, placed knob-down so it prints without supports). Nut and bolt sizes M3–M8 come from the Screw hole tool, with 0.2 mm allowance; sizes that do not fit are refused. Edit settings rebuilds it.
  • Honeycomb Wall plugs (Create) — hang anything you design on a Honeycomb Storage Wall. Select the part, pick its Wall side (back, front, left or right) and press Add: the plugs are joined on at the part’s bottom, as many as its width allows, a whole number of cells apart (40.9 mm: cells at the same height), so they go into hook-socket inserts. With nothing selected it makes a plug plate instead, to join to anything later. The plug is the original’s (13.45 mm across flats, 8 mm long, flat side down): print the part upright, the plugs on the bed. Fit makes it a little easier or firmer. Panels, inserts, hooks, shelves and bins are on the Honeycomb Wall page.
  • Electronics enclosure (Create). Pick the board — Arduino Uno, Arduino Nano, Raspberry Pi 4, Raspberry Pi Zero, ESP32 DevKitC or Custom (its length, width and corner mounting holes). You get a base and a lid: the board sits on standoffs at its holes (pilot holes for small self-tapping screws), or on two rails under its ends for boards with pins underneath; Port openings cuts holes in the walls for its connectors; Standoffs and Above board set the room under and over it; Wall and Gap the walls and the space round the board. Lid: a press-fit lip, or four M3 screws into corner posts. Optional Vents in the lid and Mounting tabs. Print the lid plate-down. Connector positions follow the boards’ drawings — check against your own board before a long print. Edit settings rebuilds both parts.
  • Clearance test (Create). A plate of holes, each the Pin Ø plus one clearance (From, to, step — 0.1 to 0.5 mm by default), with the clearance raised beside each hole, and a loose pin with a small chamfer at its foot. Print both and try the pin in each hole: the first one it slides into is your sliding fit. Choose it in Pin slid into and press Save to my fingerprint (signed in, with a printer fingerprint) — it becomes that fingerprint’s clearance reading, the same one the calibration Clearance gauge records. The designer then fills in its gaps for you from the fingerprint in use: joint and fit clearance get the clearance, gear and planetary gaps 0.1 mm more, print-in-place and box-lid clearance 0.2 mm more, and the Screw hole tool’s Print allowance your “holes come out undersized by” reading. A number you type yourself is kept; hovering a filled-in box says where it came from.
  • Articulate a model (Create → Articulate) — print-in-place joints in any part, made in the designer or imported. Select it and pick Where: Along the body cuts it into equal segments along its length (Segments; Length along Auto takes the part's own longest side), or One joint where I click — click the part where the joint goes: only the end nearer the click moves, and only the limb you clicked (the blue cylinder in the preview), so you can joint an arm without cutting the body; click a segment again for more joints. Joint: a hinge that bends side to side (its pin stands upright — the strongest way to print), a hinge that bends up and down, a ball and socket (bends any way; the ball stays captive, so how far it bends depends on its size), a swivel (twists) or a flexi link — no pin: a round knob on a neck held by claws that wrap more than half way round it, all through the whole thickness, so it works in a flat model only a few millimetres thick where a hinge will not fit (it needs about 11 mm of width; the knob is barrel-shaped so it cannot drop out up or down, with a little up-and-down play; narrow spots bend less, the panel says how far). Bend ± is how far each joint bends either way; Gap is the space between two segments' faces; Clearance the space round pins, balls and pegs (your fingerprint's clearance + 0.15 mm when you have one). A green disc marks each cut; before anything is cut every cut is measured, and if a spot is too thin or a segment too short for the bend it says which and why. Each segment's faces are V-shaped (cones for ball joints) only as far as the body reaches, so legs and spikes further along keep their shape. Print it lying as it is; it comes off the printer already moving. Ball joints are the fussiest: print a clearance test first. Bend it (Create → Articulate) — select any piece of an articulated model. Hold still: the piece that stays put (first the biggest); Joint: all of them together, or one; Bend (or Twist for a swivel) and, for a ball joint, Lift — never past each joint's range. Wiggle sends a wave along the body. Check fit tests every two pieces that come close in that pose and names any that overlap — curl a dragon right round and it tells you which legs meet. Done (or Esc) puts it back straight, as it prints. The joints are saved with the design, copied with Duplicate (a copy is a model of its own) and undone with Undo. Demos → Articulated demos… has a flexi snake, every joint side by side, a robot arm, a flexi dragon and a flat flexi lizard (designv2.php?demo=a1…a5).
  • Turn the gears (Create) — see your gears work before printing. Every gear that touches another is linked; the selected gear drives (or the one with the most partners) and the others turn at their tooth-count ratio — side by side the other way round, inside a ring the same way. Turn / Pause (Space), reverse, and a speed slider. Gears that hit glow red with a marker where. Check fit steps every pair through a whole tooth and reports the closest gap — or the first place they collide, and shows them there. A loop of gears that can't turn (three all touching each other) is pointed out. Two gears stacked on the same axis (one sitting on the other — a compound gear) turn together as one, so two-stage gearboxes work too. A rack slides as its gear turns (gears on one rack turn the same way) and turns back before a gear runs off its end. Gears you Combine (union) or Group with other parts — two gears joined by a shaft, a gear on a pulley — keep turning: the combined part turns as one piece about its gears' axis (its gears must share one axis). Several separate mechanisms in one design all turn at once, each driven from its own busiest gear, and Check fit checks them all. Bevel gears and worms turn too — a bevel gear flat with its partner on its side, a worm on its side beside its wheel — and Check fit tests every bevel and worm pair in 3D through a whole tooth. A worm or bevel gear combined with other shapes (a shaft, a crank handle) keeps turning: the whole part turns about that gear's axis. Done (Esc) puts every gear back exactly where it was; nothing in the design changes. Gears must lie flat (except a bevel gear's partner and a worm, which lie on their side).
  • Wrap text on a surface — bend a line of text around a cylinder, cone or sphere (mugs, vases, shades, baubles). Set the text, size and depth and it previews curved on the surface; Apply embosses (raised) or engraves (cut).
  • Parametric parts — drop in ready-made, fully editable functional parts: box + lid, bracket, standoff, cable clip, vase, phone stand, filament-spool, jar, honeycomb, divider, threaded jar, hinge and cable comb. Each opens with sliders so you dial in the exact dimensions.
  • Scrap Pad (top bar) — a small notepad for measurements and notes while you design. Drag it by its title bar anywhere on the screen and resize it from the bottom-right corner. Closing it keeps the notes, even after you close the page; clears them.
  • Model Preview (top bar) — a small window holding a photo or drawing of the model you are designing, to look at while you work. Upload, drop or paste an image into it; move and resize it like the Scrap Pad. Closing it keeps the image; removes it.
  • Reference image — drop a photo or drawing onto the bed as a flat, see-through underlay to trace or scale against. It's a guide only and isn't exported.
  • Paint faces — click or drag to colour individual faces; pick a colour and optionally Fill all. The colours export to 3MF / GLB / PLY for AMS/MMU multi-colour printing (not to STL, and not yet saved in .litez projects).
  • Subdivide (×4 faces) — split every triangle of the selected mesh into four for a denser mesh (also on the right-click menu). Run it once or twice before sculpting or point-editing when you need finer detail; it keeps the shape, just adds resolution.
  • Smooth subdivide (round) — Loop subdivision: also splits ×4 but rounds the form as it divides (a cube creeps toward a ball; faceted imports soften). Welds the mesh first so it smooths across seams; boundary edges of open meshes are kept crisp.
  • Simplify (reduce triangles) — the opposite: decimate a dense mesh by a percentage you choose. Great for taming heavy OBJ/FBX/scan imports so they stay editable and slice fast.
  • Convex hull (wrap selection) — build the tight convex solid that encloses the selected shape(s) — handy for quick bases, grips, or a simplified blocked-out form.
  • Keychain / name tag — type text, set size/thickness and a hanging-hole, and get a printable rounded tag with raised or engraved lettering in one click.
  • Cookie cutter (from SVG) — pick an SVG outline and it becomes a printable cutter: a thin wall following the shape plus a wider base flange for grip. Set the overall size, wall thickness, height and flange.

You can also Split into parts (right‑click an imported/boolean mesh) to break it into its separate bodies.


AI generate

Open the AI tool, describe what you want in plain English (e.g. "a desk organiser with three pen slots and a phone stand"), and the AI designs it: it works out the shape and real sizes, then builds it with curves, hollows, handles, lettering, holes and slots — not just stacked blocks. The model lands on the bed as a normal, editable object, so you can fine-tune, combine or cut it as usual.

  • Be specific about sizes in mm, counts and features (e.g. "4 pen holes, a card slot, rounded corners") for the best results.
  • A progress bar shows what the AI is doing — thinking, writing the model, building it. A simple object takes a few seconds; a detailed one can take a minute or two. Stop cancels.
  • If the model does not build first time, it is sent back to the AI and fixed automatically, without using another prompt.
  • It's a starting point — expect to nudge, scale and tidy afterwards.
  • The AI generator is a Supporter feature (it costs real money to run). Free accounts can use everything else; see the Supporter page. The status chip in the toolbar shows your plan and remaining AI prompts for the day.

From a lithophane

Made a photo lithophane on one of the generator pages (flat, cylinder, cone, cube, globe, lantern, multi)? Click Send to 3D Designer there and it imports straight into the editor — already welded and watertight — ready to add a frame, stand, base or hanging loop, combine with other parts, or export. A progress bar shows the hand-off for big meshes.


Shape library

  • Open it with the button at the bottom of the palette. Two packs: a Shared pack (curated, categorised — Gears, Hardware, Trains, Cars, Planes, Buildings, Robots, Building bricks…) and your private My Shapes.
  • Save selection stores the current selection as a reusable shape; Add drops a copy into your scene.
  • Use the search box and category dropdown to find things fast. Sections collapse to tidy the list.

Print preparation

  • Lay flat (click a face) — pick any face and the part rotates to rest flat on the bed (key L).
  • Auto‑arrange on bed — packs all parts into the bed without overlap; Drop all / Centre all place everything at once.
  • Check printability — flags open edges / non‑manifold geometry that could fail to slice.
  • Repair / make watertight — one click to weld, drop bad triangles, make the winding consistent, fill holes and flip normals outward. The fastest fix for imported OBJ/FBX/STL that won't slice cleanly.
  • Overhang view — paints faces steeper than 45° (likely to need supports) red.
  • Thin‑wall check — highlights walls thinner than a value you set (magenta), so they don't print too weak.
  • Print info — volume, bounding size, and weight & rough cost per material.

Lighten & simulate a print

Once a design is finished, two companion tools under Tools in the top menu take it further. Export your model as an STL first, then open it in either.

  • 3D Print Tools — hollow the model, perforate it, wrap it in a hexagonal frame, fill it with a gyroid lattice, or reduce it to a wireframe. A solid print is mostly wasted plastic; these routinely cut 70–95% of it.
  • Print Simulator — slice the model and watch it print layer by layer on your own bed size, with print-time and filament estimates, then download the G-code.

Both run entirely inside your browser — the original model is never uploaded. Full details are in the main guide.


Save, load & autosave

  • Name your design and Save to your free account; Save a copy forks it. Load shows your designs (and the public gallery) with thumbnails — sections collapse.
  • Save to file (.litez) / Open from file… — keep a design as a single file on your own computer (no login or size limit), including every separate part from a Split for printing. Opening one shows a thumbnail preview and part count before it loads, so it's great for backups or sharing the whole multi-part project. When a file holds several parts, the parts gallery opens automatically — the same thumbnail grid you get after a split, with per-part and ZIP downloads. You can reopen it any time from File → Parts gallery….
  • Autosave keeps a local backup as you work; if the page reloads it offers to restore your unsaved work.
  • Your preferences (snap, printer, public toggle…) are remembered per account. Saving / loading requires login.


Export formats

  • STL (binary or ASCII) — the universal print format (geometry only).
  • 3MF — keeps per‑object colour and separate bodies; best for Bambu / Prusa / Orca.
  • OBJ + MTL — widely supported, carries colour (two files).
  • GLB — single file with colour & materials, great for sharing / web / AR.
  • PLY — mesh with per‑vertex colour. 1 unit = 1 mm throughout.

Keyboard shortcuts

Make them your own: in the 3D Designer press ? (or File → Keyboard shortcuts) and click any key to change it: every action is there, the right-click menu's included, and every tool in the menus of the tool rail on the left (each under its menu's name). A key that is already in use moves to the new action after you say so, and Reset all brings the defaults back. Your keys are kept in your browser, and the right-click menu and the rail menus show each key next to its action.

W / E / R — move / rotate / scale
Arrows · PgUp/PgDn — nudge (Shift = fine)
D — duplicate · Del — delete
S (hold) + move — quick scale · X/Y/Z lock
Ctrl+A — select all · Ctrl+C/V — copy / paste
Tab / Shift+Tab — select next / previous object
G / U — group / ungroup
H — hollow · O — toggle hole
F / C — drop to floor / centre (selected)
Shift+D / Shift+C — drop / centre all
A — auto-arrange on bed · L — lay flat
X — cut / split · T — text on a face
P — print info · M — measure
Shift+P — Push/Pull a flat face
Shift+M — Move with snapping (Ctrl = copy, then 5x or /5)
Shift+R — Draw on a face (rectangle, circle, polygon, lines)
Shift+O — Offset a face · Shift+F — Follow Me
Shift+T — Tape measure & guides
While dragging an arrow — type a number: move by that many mm, turn by degrees, or set the size in mm (X / Y / Z changes the axis)
Shift+W — display mode (solid/wire/x-ray) · 1–4 — views
Ctrl+Z / Ctrl+Y — undo / redo
Ctrl+S / Ctrl+Shift+S — save / save copy
Ctrl+O / Ctrl+Shift+O — load / open file
Ctrl+E — export STL
/ — command palette (search all tools)
Alt+X / Alt+Y / Alt+Z — mirror X / Y / Z
Alt+U / Alt+S / Alt+I — union / cut / keep (two parts, or pick the 2nd)
Shift+H — apply holes · Shift+X — split into parts
Shift+S — edit size · Shift+L — align onto a face
K — lock / unlock · Alt+H — hide · Alt+W — wireframe (this part)
Alt+B — align bottoms · Ctrl+Shift+E — export this part as STL
V then 1 … 0 — go to build view 1 … 10
Esc — cancel · ? — the shortcuts (change them there)

Tips & limits

  • Overlapping shapes export as separate solids — your slicer merges them, or use Union for a single mesh.
  • Use Subtract / hole mode to cut holes, slots and pockets.
  • Keep parts reasonably simple before booleans for clean, fast results.
  • Check printability after booleans, imports or splits to catch non‑manifold geometry.
  • Colours are saved into 3MF/OBJ/GLB/PLY but not STL.